This is how you start the day off right: with a ramekin of eggs baked in thyme and cream, accompanied by toast soldiers for dipping. Where I had it, though—at Balthazar with DL—was significantly less relaxed than this post would lead you to believe. Blame it on the holiday season; even with a frigid wind sweeping the streets the place was packed with gleeful tourists, and the din was impressive. The prices ain't cheap, either. Still, at our little table where a single movement meant a good elbow rub with our neighbors, the food was good and the conversation even better. Brunch and a long-unseen friend on a cold, cold morning: the company warms your heart, methinks, better than hot coffee.